Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Soaring 天際傲遊 ...

Location: KL Zoo 吉隆坡动物园
Date Taken: May 25th, 2010 01:04pm
Nikon D90, Nikkor AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6
ISO 640, "S" priority 1/500s @ f/16, +1 EV, WB=Sunlight, FL=300mm
Software: Picasa
Flickr link:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/46055880@N03/4700212064/ 

...... There are lots of these big birds at the Kuala Lumpur zoo. And they are huge wonderful birds which makes it easier to practice Fast Shutter priority to freeze their flight motion. Large birds are actually slower and therefore easier targets. Depending on the kind and tones of the bird, the suggested baseline manual settings are 1/500th to 1/1000th second for shutter speed. I was told that the baseline setting are f4.0 to f8 for aperture. The general rule seems to be if the bird is darker, then the Aperture should be bigger (small f number like f/4) to ease up on under-exposing the image. (But here as my camera was on shutter priority, it calibrated itself for an f/16). It is suggested therefore to use "M" or "Manual" mode to work within the baseline Shutter and Aperture Settings. Lots of light is the best condition so that the ISO number can be tuned to lowest possible like ISO200 or even ISO100. (In my case, it was ISO640 as I was shooting under a lot of shades). Focus lock of half-pressing the shutter is important to lock in the focus of the bird while tracking its motion using the viewfinder. I still find it needs lots of practice which makes "Photographing birds in flight" a very challenging and enjoyable photography subject.

1 comment:

Monique et Daniel said...

I have the same issue when tracking birds with Nikon D300.
I set to M (manual) with he speed Required, and aperture 5.6 or 6.3.
The trick is to set the camera to control the ISO setting.
Please try and translate here:
Nouvelle méthode :(qui ne figure pas dans les livres) :
Je travaille en Mode d’exposition Manuel (M),
- Je fixe la vitesse à 1/1000éme par exemple (suivant la vélocité de la bête…)
- Je fixe l’ouverture à 5.6 ou 8 suivant luminosité,
- Sensibilité ISO : Je passe en contrôle automatique, tout en affichant ISO 800 sur la molette, ainsi, je suggère au D300 de travailler à ISO800, MAIS il contrôle :
s’il a trop de lumière avec ISO800, il choisit une valeur ISO inférieure, s’il n’a pas assez de lumière avec ISO800, il choisit une valeur ISO supérieure,
- En outre, si on affiche une correction (-0.7IL par ex.), le D300 en tient compte dans son contrôle des ISO.
It is better that way.
Good luck!